It seems that this seafood "boil" is a fairly recent recipe, not older than 60 years and more likely only about forty years old. According to Beaufort historian Gerhard Spieler, the kind of link sausage used in Frogmore Stew came to this area no earlier than the 1940s as a result of immigration (before then Beaufortonians used only patty-type sausage). Mr. Spieler believes that the recipe was the invention of local shrimpers who used whatever food items they had on hand to make a stew. Sarah Rutledge's 1847 Charleston cookbook, The Carolina Housewife, had no recipes like the present-day mix of shrimp, corn and sausage. In a 1991 telephone interview, Emory Campbell, executive director of Penn Center on St. Helena Island, does not remember anything like the present-day Frogmore Stew when he was growing up although boiled shrimp has always been a part of Sea Island daily life. Another St. Helena Island native, Agnes Sherman, could not recall any traditional recipe similar to what she preferred to call "Lowcountry Stew" (because Frogmore is only one of several St. Helena Island communities).
(Above information based on 1991 telephone interviews with persons named and on The Carolina Housewife by Sarah Rutlege)
Here is Dennis Adams' simple
Frogmore Stew Recipe for 3-4 people:
Here is a Frogmore Stew recipe, based on the South Carolina Wildlife Cookbook version, which serves 30 people. INGREDIENTS:
INSTRUCTIONS:
OTHER LOWCOUNTRY RECIPES: Benne (Sesame Seed) Benne
Cookies/Wafers Benne cakes are a food from West Africa introduced to this area by slaves. "Benne" means sesame seeds. The sesame seeds are eaten for good luck. Wafers and cookies made from benne are now a part of Kwanzaa ("first fruit" in Swahili), the African-American family festival that lasts from December 26 through January 1. INGREDIENTS: 3/4 cup butter INSTRUCTIONS: Cream butter and sugar together and mix with other ingredients in the order given. Drop with a teaspoon onto a well-greased cookie pan, far enough apart to allow spreading while baking. Bake in a 325 degree F oven for 7-10 minutes. (Yield: 7 dozen.) SOURCE: Harriott Simons Marshall's recipe in Charleston Receipts, collected by the Junior League of Charleston (1950), as adjusted by Paul W. Murphey of Richland Center, Wisconsin (September 1999) and web administrator Dennis Adams. Benne Candy INGREDIENTS: 1 pound brown
sugar INSTRUCTIONS: Boil sugar with milk until it begins to thread. Remove from heat and beat in benne seed. Add vanilla and beat until creamy. Pour out inti buttered pan and cut into small squares. SOURCE: The Beaufort Cookbook: A Treasury of Carolina Recipes (1965), collected by Dee Hryharrow and Isabel M. Hoogenboom. Hoppin' John and Greens According to the Penn School & Sea Islands Heritage Cookbook (1978), the traditional New Years menu on the Sea Islands "is a simple one: Hoppin John, collard greens with hog jowls, and ribs for a side dish. Hoppin John, or brown field peas cooked with rice, is eaten for good luck throughout the year. The collard greens represent dollar bills. It is said the more one eats, the more money one will have." In A South Carolina Christmas (1997), Jan Kiefer says to be sure to soak dried peas on New Year's Eve, at just the right time for the peas to "take up" the luck. Hoppin'
John INGREDIENTS: 1 cup raw cow (field) peas INSTRUCTIONS: Boil peas in salted water until tender. Add peas and 1 cup of the pea liquid to rice, bacon (with grease) and onion. Put in a rice steamer or double-boiler and cook for one hour or until rice is thoroughly done. (Servings: 8.) SOURCE: Mary Royall Barnwells recipe in Charleston Receipts, collected by the Junior League of Charleston (1950). Serve with:
INGREDIENTS: 2 pounds collard greens INSTRUCTIONS: Wash meats and put in a large pot and cook for 45 minutes. Cover with water. Clean greens well. Cut up and combine with meat. Season to taste. Put a dash of sugar if desired. Cook over medium heat for 50 to 60 minutes or until tender. SOURCE: Allen Jennettes recipe in Penn School & Sea Islands Heritage Cookbook (1978). ADDITIONAL SERVING SUGGESTIONS: Some people prefer a jot of vinegar over the cooked greens. Collard Greens INGREDIENTS: A mess of fresh collard greens INSTRUCTIONS: Wash and rinse the greens thoroughly to remove grit. Put in a large pot and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer. Cook for about an hour (test them for "doneness" from time to time".) SOURCE: Grace M. Cordial's (our South Carolina Resources Librarian) recipe (2001). INGREDIENTS: 1 soup bone INSTRUCTIONS: Boil soup bone and beef for two hours. Add other ingredients and boil for an hour or so. This soup may be served over a spoonful of rice placed in a soup bowl, and is a meal in itself. SOURCE: The Beaufort Cookbook: A Treasury of Carolina Recipes (1965), collected by Dee Hryharrow and Isabel M. Hoogenboom. INGREDIENTS: 1 cup chopped onion INSTRUCTIONS: In a frypan, sauté onions and celery in butter over medium heat. In a separate bowl, combine onions, celery, bread, eggs, salt and oysters. To moisten dressing use part oyster juice and part milk. SOURCE: Juanita Singletons recipe in Penn School & Sea Islands Heritage Cookbook (1978). INGREDIENTS: 2 cups rice INSTRUCTIONS: In a pan, fry the bacon until brown (keep the bacon fat). Fry chopped onion in bacon fat until transparent (frying the uncooked rice along with the bacon will add a nice flavor). Add all other ingredients, bringing mixture to a boil. You may add the optional sea food seasoning powder at this point, or sprinkle it "dry" over the rice as a garnish after cooking. Reduce heat to simmer (lowest stove heat) and cook for 20 minutes until rice is done (in true Lowcountry fashion, do not stir or otherwise disturb the rice during cooking). ADDITIONAL SERVING SUGGESTIONS: Red rice is delicious with shrimp or fried chicken. Some cooks add a pinch or two of powdered seafood seasoning to the recipe, either during cooking or afterwards as a garnish. Some recipes include chopped green (bell) pepper (cook along with the onion). Also, you may wish to add just a little more rice before cooking for a drier quality that some Lowcountry residents prefer in their red rice. SOURCE: Recipe contributed by Library staff member Dennis Adams (1998). Stewed Crabs Take three or four crabs, pick the meat out of the body and claws; take care that no spongy part be left among it, or any of the shell. Put this meat into a stew-pan, with a little white wine, some pepper and salt and a little nutmeg. Heat all this together, and then put in some crumbs of bread, the yolks of two eggs break up, and one spoonful of vinegar; stir all well together; make some toasted snippets, lay them on a plate, and pour in the crabs. Send it up hot. SOURCE: The Carolina Housewife (1847) by Sarah Rutledge. INGREDIENTS:
Cook potatoes until done in boiling water. Peel while hot and slice butter over them. Mash and beat with rotary beaters at high speed in a deep bowl. When smooth, rinse beaters and continue beating at high speed, adding sugar gradually. When dissolved, add eggs, vanilla, lemon juice, cinnamon and nutmeg. Beat a few more minutes. Stir in milk gently. Pour mixture into 2 unbaked 9-inch pie shells. Bake at 350 degrees F for 45 minutes or until firm in center. SOURCE: Jessie Mae Jenkinss recipe in Penn School & Sea Islands Heritage Cookbook (1978). Sweet Potato PoneINGREDIENTS:
Peel and grate sweet potatoes. Add other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pour into greased baking dish and cook in slow oven at 300 degrees F until done, about 1 hour. SOURCE: Catherine Carr's (of lady's Island) recipe in The Legacy of Ibo Landing: Gullah Roots of African American Culture, edited by Marquetta L. Goodwine (1998).
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